A tattoo removal guide, from the clinicians performing them | British GQ
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Tattoo removal is big business, and it's getting even bigger.
Back in January, People reported that Pete Davidson spent around $200,000 to most of his ink removed. The whole process took about a year, and according to the comedian, it was rough. “It was pretty terrible, so if anybody out there is watching and thinking about getting a tattoo, make sure you really want to get it,” he said during a recent appearance on the Today show.
But even though it takes a while and it's apparently an extremely painful procedure, people are still more than happy to go through with it. According to 2023 research by All White Laser, 25 per cent of Brits have at least one tattoo, and 17 per cent of them want to get rid of it. The tattoo removal market is set to skyrocket, with an estimated growth of 5.5 per cent every single year.
So, what's it actually like? How does it even work? What kind of side effects should you expect? If you're thinking of tattoo removal, we sat down with some experts to find out everything you need to know. We also chatted with some people who've had it done, just so you can get a better understanding of whether it's actually for you or not.
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Before we get started, how do tattoos even work? Basically: when the needle gets into your skin, ink molecules are injected directly into the dermis, sitting about one millimetre below the surface. Once it punctures the dermis, your body's immune system automatically identifies the injury and triggers the release of immune system cells to heal it. Over time, some smaller ink molecules will be broken down, but because most of these are so large, they remain locked in permanently. But thanks to recent developments, you can now get rid of tattoos altogether.
“Tattoo removal is typically done through a series of laser treatments,” says Verity Taylor, tattoo removal specialist and studio manager at NAAMA. “When the energy from these lasers hits tattoo ink, it breaks them into much smaller pieces, which through your lymphatic system, your body is able to flush out over time.
“Traditionally, these treatments have been quite painful and quite harsh on the skin. However, the whole process is a lot more comfortable now, with each session lasting an average of 15 to 30 minutes. At NAAMA, we also use cooling technology during the procedure, and most clients find the sensation only mildly uncomfortable.”
There are a bunch of different ways that you can remove tattoos. From creams and dermabrasion to surgery, the method you go for really depends on your personal preference. But according to a 2019 issue of The PMFA Journal, laser tattoo removal is the most popular option, with a satisfaction rate of 90 per cent or higher.
“Laser removal is, by far, considered the safest and most effective,” says Helen Green, clinical services lead nurse at Sk:n Clinics. “We utilise medical-grade lasers, including Pico technology, which offers faster results and less downtime by optimally targeting unwanted pigment.”
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But it's not a one-time-only thing. Tattoo removal takes a lot of commitment and a lot of patience, but seeing as you got inked in the first place, that's probably something you already have. You also can't expect results to show up instantly. It will take a few sessions before you see any progress.
“Tattoo removal takes an average of 8 to 12 sessions,” says Taylor. “With modern lasers, there's less trauma to the skin, so less downtime is required. This means clients can be treated more frequently, in some cases, as often as every two to three weeks. More traditional lasers will require a minimum of a six-week break in between sessions, and often it can be much longer.”
Yes, some colours can be more stubborn, meaning the number of sessions really depends on the tattoo. A black one-word stamp can be removed a lot faster than a massive, multicoloured sleeve, for example.
“Generally speaking, white and yellow ink are the hardest to remove,” says Taylor. “White ink is difficult to remove because it reflects laser energy instead of absorbing it. It often contains titanium dioxide, which can oxidise during treatment, turning grey or yellow instead of fading. Yellow ink is difficult to remove because it absorbs very little laser energy, making it less responsive to treatment.”
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And, as with any kind of cosmetic procedure, be it blepharoplasty or a hair transplant, you should expect some potential side effects. Of course, these aren't guaranteed to happen for everyone, but they're definitely worth noting before heading into it.
“Some side effects may include redness, swelling, blistering, and temporary discomfort,” says Green. “Rarely, scarring or skin pigmentation changes may occur. Some colours may be harder to remove, and in some cases, they may leave slight ink remnants. But medically qualified practitioners from the likes of Sk:n follow strict safety protocols to minimise these risks.”
Cool, so you've just spent weeks and weeks getting rid of your ink. Now the hard part's over, right? Well, not exactly. Just like when you got your tattoo in the first place, proper aftercare is important for the best results.
“Good aftercare is as important as the procedure itself,” says Green. “We recommend keeping the treated area clean and dry, avoiding any direct sunlight, and refraining from picking at any scabs or blisters that may form. Applying a prescribed ointment can aid healing, and following your practitioners' specific aftercare instructions will help minimise potential complications.”
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So, that's what the experts have to say. But what about the people who've actually gone through tattoo removal? How many sessions did it take? How painful was it compared to getting inked? And, most importantly, did it actually work?
“Laser removal was the method I went for,” says Kai, a powerlifter from Dublin. “To be more precise, it was the Pico version. Basically, the laser breaks up the ink particles in the tattoo, which are then gradually absorbed by your body.”
“I also went for laser removal,” says Ola, a commercial dancer from Plymouth. “More specifically, the RubyStar Q-switched laser.”
“I originally bought a package of six sessions for my very small finger tattoos,” says Connor, a senior social media manager from London. “They said it would be done by then, but I think I'm on session 12, two years later, and there's still a long way to go.”
“I never fully achieved my desired results,” says Ola. “I initially believed the unwanted tattoo would disappear completely after six to seven sessions, but it never did. While it did fade significantly, it was still clearly visible. After nine sessions, I gave up and ultimately decided to cover the faded tattoo with a new one.”
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“The laser removal is more painful than the tattoo itself,” says Connor. “It feels like a hot knife slicing through your skin, and because it's repetitive, I'd say it was more painful than the OG tattoo, which was done in under ten minutes.”
“I would say the pain was worse than getting the tattoo,” says Ola. “It felt like intense electric or fire-like zaps. Definitely not pleasant.”
“Recovery is very similar to a new tattoo,” says Kai. “As it's an open wound, it took me four to six weeks to fully heal. There was general redness and swelling, but the healing was quick, with minimal scarring if done correctly.”
“Ultimately, my skin never returned to normal in that area,” says Ola. “I was left with scarring and uneven skin texture. Seven years after the procedure, you can still see those under my cover-up tattoo. The healing process in between the laser sessions was tough, with skin blistering and scabbing.”
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“It was absolutely worth it for me because the tattoos that I removed held no meaning to me anymore,” says Kai. “Things change, and I was fortunate enough to be able to fund the treatment.”
“Yes and no, but swaying more towards no,” says Ola. “Yes, as it did ultimately help me fade the tattoo and cover it up more easily, and no, as I ended up with scars and was out of a substantial amount. I paid £50 per session, £450 in total. This was seven years ago, so I assume the price would be a lot higher now. The tattoo I removed was also a very simple design with black ink.”
“Yes, I would, frankly,” says Kai. “I'm actually in the middle of getting another tattoo being removed. It's worth noting that laser removal is probably going to end up costing more than your actual tattoo, so that's something to bear in mind.”
“In my opinion, I do feel like it was worth the money,” says Connor. “With that said, it has definitely put me off getting another tattoo in the future.”
“I'd go through tattoo removal again only if I wasn't planning to cover it up with another tattoo,” says Ola. “It's painful, invasive, and requires a lot of dedication, time, and money. In my opinion, it's probably easier and cheaper just to get a cover-up.”
How does tattoo removal work?What kind of tattoo removal methods are there?How many sessions will you need?Are some colours harder to remove than others?What are the potential side effects?What aftercare is required?What method do most people go for?How many sessions did it take?How painful was tattoo removal?How long did it take for your skin to fully heal?Did you feel like it was worth the money?Would you go through tattoo removal again if needed?